http://www.ncsa.uiuc.edu/General/Internet/WWW/HTMLPrimer.html
 - which is actually pretty dry, since it's nitty gritty, but a good place 
to start nonetheless cause you get right into HTML....
or here:
http://home.netscape.com/assist/net_sites/
 -this is a better place to look. - more friendly.
from there:
http://www.corpnet.com/~aking/webinfo/greatsite.html
this is a really well done synopsis on what makes a site people will want to 
come back to, its part of Andy King's Webmaster Reference Library, which is 
a chestful of good stuff,  http://www.corpnet.com/~aking/
when you get ready for the bells and whistles (basically all those fun and 
wonderful Netscapisms, although personally i'm torn, ask me about it 
sometime), look at some of these:
http://drizzle.stanford.edu/~achille/html/hacks.html
     kinda funky the way its done (somebody's a zen freak), but good stuff
http://home.netscape.com/assist/net_sites/dynamic_docs.html
     discussion on how Netscape  (and, hopefully, HTML 3.0) does real cheap 
animation (dynamic document updating)
and, the most basic way to learn (like Lile pointed out) is to surf around 
and check out what other people have done (mine's at 
http://art.net/Studios/Poets/Sgd/) - so get out there and surf, when you see 
a page you like, look at the source and save it, then use snipetts of it 
later in your own. NOTE: i'm talking about the HTML codes, not the content, 
that would be copyright infringement (or plagiarism, i can't remember 
which).
lemme know - i'll walk you along if'n ya want
sgd